adjusting the rise question

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

I watched the video on adjusting the rise in pants. how does your method differ from just using the l/s lines on the pattern tissue? I always have an issue with rise. I have to buy tall. I’ve tried to find out what the difference in rtw is between average and tall but no one seems to know. pants always seem to fit short in the back and long in the front. If I measure RTW jeans that fit, can I use those measurements to adjust? how do I determine where to locate the crotch point where front meets back?

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

It depends on where the l/s lines are located. If the l/s lines are located below the crotch curve, it’s only going to affect the inseam length of the legs, therefore you would make this adjustment if the crotch area fits well, but you just want to make the legs longer. If the l/s line is within the crotch curve than you’re just adjusting the rise of the pants and the leg length is not going to change. Yes, if you have a pair of jeans where the crotch area fits you well, you can definitely use those measurements but you need to make sure that the top of current pants and new pants sit on the same point of your body, otherwise the measurements will be different. The front and back crotch is going to be divided by the inner leg seam. If you end up increasing the back and shortening the front of the crotch curve and there is no l/s line within the crotch curve, I recommend drawing your own l/s line near the top of the pants where the crotch curve is more straight. Then using the more traditional slash and spread for lengthen or folding for shortening. That way the inner leg seam doesn’t get too far off. Good luck!

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