Alterations for an “Apple”

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Dear Professor, I am an apple shaped woman. I have a full bust, a large midriff and abdomen. My back does not carry the majority of me weight. My hips are smallish and my seat is pretty flat. How does one alter a top pattern for this shape? Most alterations for the waist address address the actual waist, which makes sense. But my widest part is my midriff, above my waist. Does it work to make greater width adjustments on the front of a pattern and smaller adjustments on the back of a garment?

Many thanks.

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Hi there, sorry for the delay in response! In your case, since you’re wider in the front, it makes sense to make adjustments to the front pattern only. I would choose a pattern size, according to your bust measurement, that way you can make sure that everything above the bust (shoulder area) fits properly. I found this page that kind of gave a visual on how they corrected an issue that sounds similar to yours (minus the hip part): http://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/2009/03/shirt-pattern-alteration-for-full-hips.html Unfortunately, they don’t go into great detail but it should give you an idea. If you do make an adjustment, make sure that you create a quick muslin so you can test the fit and see if any further adjustments are needed. You also might find an easier time, with patterns that are fitted on top and looser around the midriff sections, more of an empire bustline silhouette. Hope that provides some help.

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Thanks! I’ve been pitching away at this. I’m going to master it! I’m using Nancy Zieman’s Pattern Fitting with Confidence as my in hand resource. I’m on test run number 3 for a top. Sheets from the Goodwill ROCK as trial fabric. In any event, I’ve discovered that if I followed my high bust measurement, the neck opening is still too gappy. I keep cutting the smaller size pattern and adding the width where I need it in the abdomen and bust. The pattern I’m working with has an attached cap sleeve. I’m still wrapping my brain around how to get the sleeve opening wide enough, since there isn’t a separate sleeve pattern piece. Thanks for all your great videos. They keep me motivated!

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