altering princess line pattern using pivot & slide

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Hello Professor Pincushion!
I have used your pivot and slide method very successfully, on patterns which consist of a bodice and skirt. I thought I’d be extra adventurous and try to use this method on a princess line dress. Oh my goodness. I spent an entire day, adding to pattern pieces, cutting them off, trying a different tact etc with no success at all. I tried to create a bodice with darts using the princess line then using the method like it was just a normal bodice, but again no success. I ended up just making a toile and marking all over with marking pen areas to alter etc.

Is it possible to use the pivot and slide method on princess seams?

Kelly 😀

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Yes, you can do it. Basically, you’re taking the increase and adding to 4 pattern pieces instead of 2. Because it’s getting spread out over more pieces, you can get away with increasing by more than 4″ and not have to worry about altering the sleeve since chances are the armhole isn’t going to increase as much as with a regular bodice. So you take your difference and divide by the number of cut edges there are. So instead of taking your difference and divide by 4, chances are you’re going to be dividing by 12, because there’s 6 cut edges in the front and 6 in the back, if you have the standard center front, side fronts, center back, side backs that make up the princess bodice. I’ve attached a picture I found that shows how to do the pivot on the pieces where you’re basically adding to both sides of the pattern instead of just one side. Hope that helps for the next time! 🙂

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

oh and if your center front/center back has 1 side that is “place on fold” you won’t be adding on that side. You just pivot on the side that is opposite of the “place on fold” side.

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Hi again!
Sorry for the delay but just wanted to let you know that it all worked beautifully. I was kinda doing what you had said, however I was using the same pivot point to alter the bust, hence why I got into a bind! But it all makes sense now. Happy sewing!

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Yay! I’m glad to hear that it worked out 🙂

[Anonymous]

Hello – could I see the pictures that were sent on how to do this?

[professorpincushionParticipant]

here’s the images 🙂

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[VulpeslyyaParticipant]

Hello,

What book is that image from? 🙂

[professorpincushionParticipant]

hi, it’s this book: https://www.amazon.com/Busy-Womans-Fitting-Book/dp/0932086101

[VulpeslyyaParticipant]

Thanks so much!

[lily_99654Participant]

Hello,

Thank you for your description in the message above, of how to pivot and slide for princess seams with 4 pattern pieces. And for the picture posted further down. 🙂 My question is, what difference does making 4 adjustments per side, vs. 6, make to the garment? (8 vs. 12 total adjustments.) Does it allot more room for side boob? I’m having a hard time visualizing it.

Thank you,

Lily

[professorpincushionParticipant]

Thanks for your question. For me this decision is really based on the amount you want to alter. If you were increasing by just an inch, then you might want to stick with only making the alterations on the side seams because the increase isn’t a significant amount, in my opinion, to go through the work for altering all the pieces. If you’re increasing by a lot, like 4″, then yes, I think it’s best to spread the increase over all the pieces. Then you’re making smaller adjustments over many pieces and there’s less of a chance you’ll end up with your pattern pieces getting distorted due to the increase.

[stresssewParticipant]

Hello, I realize this topic is more than 4 years old but I have some questions on it and I hope someone might be able to help!

1) I’ve been following Nancy Zieman’s pivot and side method and she makes changes for 8 seams not 12. Always adding the increase to only one side of the pattern piece. Does putting the increase equally on both sides of the pattern piece not distort the grain?

2) I am working on a dress with princess seams where the seams meet at the armpit not up at the shoulder. I am confused as to where to pivot on pattern pieces 2 & 4. Has anyone used this method on this type of princess seam? Should I pivot at the red dot or the blue dot? Or both depending on where I’m adding volume?

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[stresssewParticipant]

Hello, I realize this topic is more than 4 years old but I have some questions on it and I hope someone might be able to help!

1) I’ve been following Nancy Zieman’s pivot and slide method and she makes changes for 8 seams not 12. Always adding the increase to only one side of the pattern piece. Does putting the increase equally on both sides of the pattern piece not distort the grain?

2) I am working on a dress with princess seams where the seams meet at the armpit not up at the shoulder. I am confused as to where to pivot on pattern pieces 2 & 4. Has anyone used this method on this type of princess seam? Should I pivot at the red dot or the blue dot? Or both depending on where I’m adding volume?

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