Facings

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Professor, I understand how to increase bust size in a commercial pattern but what about the armhole facings are the all in one facing? Do you increase those to? If its an all in one facing wouldn’t it throw it off. I will start a new pattern tomorrow & need to increase bust size but it has an all in one facing. Also can you plese tell me what I’m doing wrong. My facings always wants to roll outside even if I understitch or stitch in the ditch. I even sewed them down to the seams. Not to much trouble with the back but mainly front. Thanks, shugblevins!

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

For keeping your facing pieces on the inside, after you do a top stitch, tack the edge of the facing to any bodices seams. so you’d be doing a couple hand stitches sewing facing to shoulder seam and/or bodice side seam. You can also use something iron-on like stitch witchery and iron this between the layers and this should also hold them together.

If you place a facing on the original original armhole, you’ll see that not only does it fit perfectly, but looks it could have been cut out from that part of the bodice. So after you make changes to the bodice, lay corresponding facing on the new armhole (matching at the shoulder), place your tracing paper over both and then draw facing outline but just extend your outline to the edge of the new armhole. I did something similar in our bodice facing pattern tutorial. I hope this helps.

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

So you are suppose to top stitch facings & where on top or bottom? Thanks

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

After you do the understitching and turn the facing to the inside, top stitch around the whole armhole, pretty close to the edge. Does that make sense?

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Yes it does & that’s what I was doing wrong. Now have to go back & fix a few! Lol

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