Getting a Pattern That Fits

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

I’m in the process of making my first dress and I’m using a Simplicity pattern. I realized that my waist size is 2 inches bigger than the measurements indicated for the biggest size in the pattern. In other words, the waist is the only part that won’t fit if I continue with the pattern. How can I adjust the skirt/bodice to fit this area of my body? Should I just cut fabric that is slightly bigger than the pattern, and take it in later?

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Hi there, I suggest you watch my video on increasing the bust video.  It’s not quite the same thing but the techniques are similar to increasing the waistline on a bodice.  You’d do the same mathematical formula with your waist measurements and then at the bottom of the bodice on your worksheet, you’d make a mark 1/4 of the total amount you’re increasing by…so in your case it would be 1/2″, out from the current side seam.  Using the pivot method, your pivot point would be at the bottom of the armhole only, and pivot out till  the bottom of your pattern meets your 1/2 mark and draw along the new side seam.  Then pivot the pattern back to it’s original position.  The line you drew is your new side seam and that’s the line you cut along after taping the pattern to your worksheet.    That’s it!  You’ll have to do this for the front and back  bodice patterns and do something similar at the top of the skirt pattern to make sure the two pieces match.  It’s also a good idea to take your altered patterns and make your dress out of some cheap fabric like muslin to test your alterations and then you can decide if you want to make any other adjustments to the pattern before using your nice fabric.  You don’t have to do the full steps that come in your directions but just baste the muslin pieces together.  You’re just testing the fit.  I’m sure if you haven’t seen the bust video, this all sounds confusing but, hopefully, once you watch it, this will all make sense.  Good luck and I’d love to see a pic of your dress when you finish.  🙂

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Definitely follow Professor Pincushion’s advice.  Her videos are excellent!  If you cut the pattern out bigger all around to accomodate your waist, you’ll have to alter everything including the neckline and it’s a nightmare.  If you make a muslin out of cheap fabric that you like, once you get the fit down, just stitch where you basted and you’ll get 2 dresses for your efforts. You might also want to look at Simplicity Amazing Fit patterns.  That line is made so you mix and match the pieces that fit your body.  I swear, I have nothing to do with Simplicity but I did use that line to teach myself how to alter clothing to fit myself and the rest of the people I sew for.  🙂 Best of luck!

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