Home Page › Forums › Ask A Question › How Do I Take Body Measurements
Tagged: body measurements
- This topic has 2 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 11 years, 8 months ago by the_professors_assistant.
-
AuthorPosts
-
March 7, 2013 at 2:50 PM #9749the_professors_assistantKeymaster
I’m teaching myself how to take complete body measurements, and I came across a site that was really helpful. I struggled on some measurements, however.
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4610/how-to-measure-up
This site says I need to measure:
Front shoulder slope, Back shoulder slope, Chest width, Crotch(the entire crotch section), Abdomen depth, Hip depth, Fullest part of hip, Fullest hip depth.
The problem is, I don’t know how properly measure those. I’ve googled how to do it and looked for images, but I still don’t have a clear understanding of how to measure them.
*also as a sidenote* What do they mean by Fullest Part of Hip? Wouldn’t that simply be the same as the Hip Circumference. The site list both of those as separate measurements.
March 7, 2013 at 2:51 PM #9750the_professors_assistantKeymasterWell, I think the easiest way to think to about full body measurements is to think of the body of having invisible seams. Conveniently, these invisible seams line up in the exact spot where a garment seam would be. So for example, chest width is going to go across the chest from side seam to side seam. Back width is going to go across the widest part of the back from side seam to side seam. Front shoulder slope is going to measure starting at shoulder seam but starting point should be be edge of the shoulder and end point should be to waist at the center front seam. It also helps if you tie strings around each of the three major circumferences (around bust, waist, and hip) before measuring starts as they will be referenced a lot. Also, I recommend doing a good deal of commercial pattern making on yourself before attempting patternmaking. This way it gives you familiarity with how patterns work and how fit and alteration works. It’s definitely a good foundation to build on and I feel patternmaking makes a lot more sense if you have this under your belt. If you watch our basic pants and basic skirt patternmaking series I also show you exactly how to take some of these measurements. We don’t have anything for bodice measurements yet, but hopefully soon. Good luck!
March 7, 2013 at 2:52 PM #9751the_professors_assistantKeymasterwow, that’s a lot of measurements! If you just want to use a commercial pattern, you don’t need all those measurements. You just need bust, hips and waist. When they say fullest, it means the circumference of that area at the widest point of the body. So a measurement of the fullest part of the hips would be measuring around the circumference of the body at the point where your hips are the widest. All those other measurements are mainly used for making alterations and when you get into patternmaking. You’ll see I use some of these different type of measurements for some of my patternmaking tutorials because when you’re creating custom patterns then you need these numbers. If you just want to start with commercial patterns, then just keep it easy on yourself and worry about bust, waist, and hips. So I go over these measurements in our tutorial Measurements. But basically you take your full circumference of the fullest part of the bustline, at your natural waistline (where you have a natural indentation above your belly button) and the fullest part of your hips. Make sure to take these measurements in tight fitting clothes (we don’t need it adding unnecessary inches) and it’s better if a friend can help so you can stand up straight and tall. No looking down. The tape measure should run flat and evenly over the body, parallel to the floor. It should be snug so you can still fit a finger or two under the tape measure, but not too tight and no cheating on numbers. You only cheat on yourself, if you cheat. The best looking clothes fit well. Compare these to the back of the pattern envelope. Remember that commercial pattern sizes are different than retail sizes (otherwise known as vanity sizing). You’ll tend to get a size that’s bigger than what you normally where. So don’t freak out if you normally wear clothes that are a size 10 but the pattern says you’re a size 18. Get the group of the numbers that best suit you and that’s your size. Now sometimes bust and hip will be perfect but the waist size may be a few inches bigger. That’s fine and go with that size. It’s easier to take in the waist a little. We also have bust increase and bust decrease alterations if you need to try that. We’ll be having more alterations tutorials as well. Good luck!
-
AuthorPosts
- The forum ‘Ask A Question’ is closed to new topics and replies.