Measure twice, cut once

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Hello all, new to this, so please bear with me. I’ve searched the net and this forum looking for an answer and don’t feel any the wiser, so I thought I’d ask the question here.

I’m sewing up New Look pattern 6250. I followed the size chart and determined that a 114cm (about 45″) chest (male) should be a size XL. I cut out the pattern and looked at it crossways and back and thing that it would probably fit both me and my wife … AT The Same Time!. So I looked at it again, and down under the “Garment Measurements” section I can see that 114cm would really be more of a size M. I’m uncertain and would really not like to have to go buy new fabric and start over.

Can someone enlighten me as to why there would be such a large difference between unisex size and garment measurements? Is there a discrepancy in the pattern or in my understanding?

Thank you in advance for your help!

William

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

hi there! I looked at the back of the pattern envelope and it does say that a 45″ chest would put you between a L and an XL. You do go by body measurements and not by garment measurements when choosing a size. The garment measurements is the finished size with the added ease. You can watch my tutorial on design and functional ease, but essentially what it means is that the pattern creator will add to the body measurement in the creation of the pattern so that you’ll be able to raise your arms and move comfortably in your garment. When it comes to garments made with woven fabrics, there is always going to be ease added because if you make the garment skin tight it won’t be comfortable.
Now when you look at your pieces, are you just looking at the pattern pieces and going “whoa! this looks huge!” or have you already started putting it together? If it’s the former, I wouldn’t stress out too much. Not only is there ease, but there’s also seam allowance and if there’s a dart then there’s even more added inches. Also, I’ve done the same thing and my garment ended up fitting. You’re looking at your pieces flat and that will always make them look bigger because they’re not wrapping around your body. If you’re unsure, I would just make a muslin, which means using cheap fabric and basting pieces together and baste any darts. You don’t need to do all the finishing but just enough to try it on and then you can get a real idea if you need to go down a size. Good luck!

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Thank you very much for your advice. I’ve been going back and forth on it so long that my eyes started crossing. The pieces do look enormous when laid out flat, even taking into account a 5/8″ seam allowance, but I’ll trust you and the patternmakers to know what you’re talking about and forge ahead. It’s also great advice to test-sew a muslin prototype, just to see that the size is right.

Thanks again, and I’ll be following you regularly!

William

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