Pant Pattern

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

I just finished sewing the muslin from the basic pant pattern, they fit  well, but in the back, between the thigh and the knee, they are baggy, how do I ajust without loosing my grain line.

I cannot just take in from the hem, up to the hip, they will be to small around the hips and the waist.

Thanking you for your reply

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Hi there!  Congrats on completing your pants pattern!  Don’t worry about doing adjustments as this is a perfectly normal part of the process.  The basic pants are meant to be loose in the legs and definitely looks better once you press the middle crease in them.  How is the fit at the knees?  Also, when you sewed the front and back together at the side and inner seams, did the seams match perfectly?  I’ve never had bagginess in that particular area before but it might be solved if we shave off a little of the back’s side seams in just that area.  When you wear them, pin the back near the side seam and inner seam in your trouble area on just one leg, while wearing them.  (I definitely have a friend help with this part.)  Compare the two different legs and see if you like the fit better.  If you’re liking it, remove the basting stitches and resew, taking your pin marks into account.  Just make sure to always sew a smooth line so we don’t create problems in other areas.  If you like it, transfer the changes to your draft.   Since these is your own personal pattern, we can make small tweaks and this should have no affect on the grainline.

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Hi! Thank you for your reply.  To answer your question, the pants fit very well at the knees, and my inner and side seams match. I think the problem might be my body, I have large hips and my buttocks are flat.  So, the hip measure is big  and that surely makes a difference at the crotch and the thigh, what do you think? I took in a 1/4 in. seam on each side and at the inner seam,  I cannot take in more, the hips will be to small, could I work differently, increase the hip curve and take in more between the crotch and the knee?   I don’t want to loose the grain line, it falls so well presently, all my seams are straight and neat. You can imagine that when it’s time for me to shop for pants, they never fit properly, so that why I realy appreciate your class on pattern making. Thanking you again, and keep up the good work.

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

I have to say that you’re awesome for having the confidence for being willing to experiment.  Sure, you can do all the math and be as accurate as possible, but usually that just gets you 90% of the way there.  Good for you.  Yes, you can try increasing the hip curve and then try taking in the side seams below the crotch.  I definitely wouldn’t redraw the draft, just lay another sheet on top and copy the parts that are good and change the hip curve.  Don’t take in the side seams until after you try on your new muslin, so you can work with it.  I know it’s a lot of work and can be frustrating, but if you stick with it, you’ll get your pair of great fitting pants.  When you do, I want to see a picture. Good luck! 🙂

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