pivot and slide question

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Hi,
I watched your videos on enlarging a sleeve and bodice using pivot and extension. But how do I use this technique if I only need to increase the sleeve 2 inches (or less), yet I need to increase the bust 5 inches? I don’t need extensions for the sleeve, I can just pivot for the 2 inches. But my bustline needs extensions because I need to increase more than 4 inches. Confused.

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Well, the issue is that by using the pivot method you are altering the armhole. In other words, by increasing the bust by 5″, your armhole may be increased enough that your sleeve cap will be too small to fit. If I were you, I would make a muslin with your desired changes and just see if it still works, basically just cut your pieces in muslin and baste them together to test the fit. It may be ok because you’re increasing the armhole on each side by 2 1/2″ so that’s a 1/2″ difference, if you also add 2″ to the sleeve. Also, sleeve caps usually have a little bit of playing room but I guess that depends on the sleeve. I hope it works for you! 🙂

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Thank you for responding. I did do a muslin, but I didn’t add enough ease for the bust. I was hoping to get away without using extensions on the bust, but it was too tight. I pivoted the sleeve just 1/2″ and pivoted the bodice 1″ So I will try again. Here is some info on the pattern as well as my measurements.

But first a question: Is it necessary to use the maximum pivot in the sleeve, 2″ per side, BEFORE you can add an extension?

My pattern, Simplicity 2444 (the one used in your video) is a size 12. I chose that based on my armscye to armscye measurement. The pattern measures 37″ bust and 13.25 in sleeve.

My bust measures 40″, with ease I need a total of 43″ .
My arm measures 13.25″ and I am allowing for 2″ ease for a total of 15.25″ However, I think I only need 1.5 or 1.75 inches of ease in the bicep. But that confuses me even more.

I need a 6″ increase in bust ,but only a 2″ (or less) increase in sleeve.

I thought maybe I could do the following:
Sleeve 1/2″ pivot and 1/2″ extension. For a total of 2″ increase
Bodice 1″ pivot and 1/2″ extension. For a total of 6″ increase

I think I understand it that you are supposed to start with the sleeve and let that dictate any extension on the bodice. But I don’t believe I need to add more than 2 inches to the sleeve. But I do need the extension in the bust.

Any advice? Thank you.

Nadine

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

oops. I didn’t mean 2″ per side is maximum for sleeve pivot. I understand that it is only 1″ per side. But still wondering If I need to do the maximum pivot before I do the extension. I don’t know how else to figure out how to get the ease I need in the bust.

I really do want to get this right, because I think it is still easier than slashing and spreading the pattern.

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Sorry for the delay in response. I’ve been giving your situation some thought and I understand what you’re trying to do. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with not doing the maximum 2″ increase in the sleeve before doing a slide extension instead of just pivoting the whole 2″. I think some just find it easier to do it in one step instead of 2 but I can’t think of any logical reason for you to not go ahead and pivot 1/2″ and then slide 1/2″. The only issue is that your armhole may still be too big for your sleeve. To each side, you’re still increasing the armhole by 3″ so there may still be a 1″ difference that you may have to tweak. So in the end, you may have to increase your sleeve width by a little more just to fit in the armhole. Let me know how your dress turns out! 🙂

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

Thank you for responding. I did another muslin and the fit seems to be really good. I may need to add just a bit more to the arm. I used the 1/2″ extension so the extensions on the bodice and sleeve would match, but I pivoted only 1/4″ instead of 1/2″. I think I could use maybe a 3/8″ pivot.

The sleeve set in fine, because I kept the extensions on the bodice and the sleeve the same. The amount I pivot on the bodice is different from the sleeve, but pivoting doesn’t change the length of the armscye or the sleeve cap.

I realized that as long as I keep the extensions the same, since those do change the length of the armscye and sleeve cap, then I should be fine with whatever amounts I pivot on the sleeeve or the bodice.

So after lots of thinking about this, I realized it doesn’t matter if I do the sleeve or the bodice adjustments first, just make sure if I use an extension on one, then I must use the same extension on the other so the sleeve and armhole will match.

[the_professors_assistantKeymaster]

sweet! I’m glad it seems to be working out. 🙂 Please post a picture of your dress when you finish. I love this style and would love to see how it all turns out. great job! 🙂

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