Do you know that most commercial patterns are made for those that wear a b-cup. Well, if you happen to be larger than a b-cup, I'm sure you've noticed some bodice issues with some commercial patterns. Without altering the pattern for an increased bust, your options seem to be a bust area that's too tight or fitting the bust and other areas possibly being too big. There are a few options for full bust adjustment. I prefer a method that's less damaging to the actual pattern and it's a system called the pivot method. Using the pivot method to increase just the bustline area, means there's no slicing the pattern up and patching it together. Hopefully, that means less chance of creating an error or having to deal with other parts of the pattern shifting around like the grainline or darts. The integrity of the pattern remains intact and it really is a quick and simple alternative. Whenever you're doing any kind of alteration, whether it be the pivot method or another, it's always best to make a muslin version of the bodice to test your pattern and make sure the amount your increasing the bust is correct. You can decide to make any further adjustments to your pattern before using more expensive fabric.
Please note that this method works best for those increasing less than 4" total so the armhole will not be distorted. If you need more than a 4" increase, other alterations such as an extension will need to be added.
When you say tunic, does that mean there are sleeves? You can make adjustment with more than 4″, you just have to make an adjustment to the sleeves as well. I plan to release the sleeve alteration tutorial very soon, so I hope it’ll help you out.
Oh darn! I followed this video after finding it on youtube and finding it made much more sense then the chop method. Unfortunately, there was no information about the 4″ limit and my difference is 5″!! I did the entire adjustment but had a question related to the dart so I’ve not yet cut anything. Planned on a trial version first but guess it’s a ruin then huh. So how do I make this adjustment? The top Im making is a flowing tunic so I suppose I could try the 4″ and make the trial version….
If you increase by more than 4″ total, you would need to do some alterations to the sleeve by adding an extension. we’ll eventually have a tutorial on this.
Great video! I’m wondering if this method works for big changes, too? Anyone have experience with this method and increasing to say a DD or F?
Loved the video. I am definitely going to watch this one again a few times. Genius, just genius!
Excellent videos. I’ve been waiting to find an instructor such as yourself, who is able to explain things with such clarity. Well done. I eagerly await your next tutorial. Rhona
I am looking forward to the next video too!!! I really learn a lot!
You can definitely do this with a bust dart. Just do the same technique but because the end of your dart is most likely shaped, it won’t have a smooth side seam like mine. Just follow the line of your side seam so you maintain the shape of the dart end. And don’t forget to extend your dart lines. Also, test your pattern with muslin before trying it with the real thing.
We also plan to do more alteration tutorials so I’ll add your request to our list. 🙂
I so agree with kim391, awesome job! Presentation was spot on. Looking forward to additional videos.
Thank you so much for this video. I actually get it. I do have question and a request:
How would this apply if there was a bust dart?
Could you do a video showing a waist increase on the pattern.
Thanks for all your hard work!